The resort also includes an adults-only Health Hub and swimming pool and a salon offering hair crème baths designed to fight the frizz when I emerge from the infinity pool attached to our five-star suite. While moons ago I happily camped in a tent pitched on one of the Hinako Islands off the coast of Sumatra, these days I’ve become rather partial to the Komune option of morning yoga and meditation and Buddha bowls. What is abundantly clear to me on this trip to Bali, two decades on, is that the surf resorts on this island east of Java are now better designed to cater to everyone in the family, regardless of whether you surf or not. The last time I was in Indonesia was around 20 years ago, at the start of a two-year honeymoon travelling to surf breaks dotted around the globe. Eat. Repeat,” raps my 13-year-old son Marley. How lucky we are to have timed our arrival to this black-sand beach with a five-star swell (as rated on the Magic Seaweed website).Īfter three hours in the water, my husband and sons come out burnished and breathless, shovel down a plate of mee goreng with spicy sambal and sit and chill until the tide comes in, the waves jack up and they do it all again. I’m joined by several burly surfers, their partners and kids all slurping down kopi (coffee) and nasi goreng (fried rice) and commentating on the conditions. A five-star swellĬome mid-morning, the sea is now a flat metallic grey and I’m sitting in a pool of sunshine at the horseshoe-shaped bar at the Beach Club at Komune. ![]() As they paddle out into the line-up they become neoprene shadows, like a deeper shade of night. ![]() With all that water coursing from the roofs and palm fronds overnight, the ground is swollen and the air is sweet. When my husband and sons trudge off for a pre-dawn surf the next morning I can’t see them, but I can hear them move through the resort, their booties squelching on the sodden earth and crunching on the volcanic sand and rock underfoot. By morning the rain has retreated and the noise of the waves has risen, filling our family suite at Hotel Komune Bali with an almighty roar from Hughie, the mythical surf god. We arrived in Bali late at night during a rainstorm blasting water down in sheets and rattling the rooftops. ![]() Cronulla surfer Kalani Vandepolder, a Kerama regular.
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